The first thing (and one of the few) that evoked my attention and desire during Fashion Week was a blood-orange dress worn by an estimated fashion critic, whose taste I always admire but never coveted as intensely before. When I inquired about its origins, I expected “Comme des Garcons” or Ann Demeulemeester. Her answer instead: Vladimir Karaleev.
Karaleev’s sculptural work has always been striking and thoughtful. He has a wonderful feel for fabric and folds. His BFW presentation showcases his talent for matching colours, textures and forms into artful configurations full of surprising twists and turns.
But the real thrill was seeing his work on a hard-working and distinguished looking mature wearer. His garments hang well on models, but that is less admirable than the intelligent, confident and stylish appearance his clothes project on someone with a “real figure” and also a real set of daily demands and a real reputation to embody. Karaleev achieved a wonderful fashion week presentation, while earning the genuine high-marks for making the hard transition into reality.
