a cut above

mongrels in common s/s12

A day and half of shows ran before, but Mongrels in Common was truly the first show of Berlin Fashion Week. Everything prior spanned the spectrum from drab to very good commercial fare. Mongrels was the first moment of true creative energy, artistry and genuine joy. The palette was a pleasing range of peach, navy, emerald, and white with one pastel ink-marbled silk print fabric and another fluid green and white pattern, both elegantly employed in dresses and blazers. The colours were delightful and wearable but the real strength was the collection’s masterful cut. Designers Christine Pluess and Livia Ximénez-Carrillo beautifully draped and spliced their subtly sumptuous fabrics with interlocking layers that flowed gracefully against the body. The cuts were maturely restrained but striking. Overalls were fashioned with ornate copper buttons, like those found on vintage military coats. The only other design details were the compelling cuts. Instead of being a strictly commercial collection or a theatrical show of artistic ambition, Mongrels in Common produced a strong selection of intelligent, realistic and unique garments.

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