Emerging fashion weeks are too often prone to self-conscious comparisons with Paris and New York. Instead, they should look to Copenhagen as their real role model – and as a template for a dynamic, distinctive and beautifully organised showcase for regional style. International press loves Copenhagen Fashion Week for many reasons. First and foremost are the shows, which flaunt the best Scandinavian design in an array of stunning and culturally significant settings, while also warmly welcoming the general public. But for the lucky few who are invited by Copenhagen Fashion Week itself, the real lure is the chance to spend a few days following Anne Christine Persson. As the manager for the event, Persson personifies Danish style. She is fun, totally together, unintimidatingly intelligent—and tall. To coin a phrase, she is an awesome Dane, and here she tells us why her city’s fashion week is also pretty great.
AFH: Why are there Fashion Weeks for Stockholm and also for Copenhagen? Why not merge them together?
ACP: We both want to have a fashion week. The Swedes are determined to stay in Stockholm. We’ve approached them to co-ordinate with us but it never happened.
AFH: Why not?
ACP: They are local. They have their Swedish bloggers and Swedish designers. At the heart, their fashion week is sponsored by the Berns Hotel, so they can’t really move. We have 60,000 people who come to Copenhagen for Fashion week. We have all the Swedish brands at the fairs and we even have five Swedish brands who regularly contribute to our schedule.
AFH: But not this season. What’s up? Where are they?
ACP: The Swedes are still struggling with the recession but they are signed up for August. They will be back. Copenhagen Fashion week really is Scandinavian. It isn’t just Danish. We have designers representing all the countries, plus five strong fairs and citywide events.
AFH: What are the aesthetic differences between Danes and the rest of the Scandinavians?
ACP: The Swedes blend together quite well, whereas we’re very eclectic. We have colourful designers, minimalist designers, artistic designers, commercial designers, and so on. The Swedes are mostly minimalist and streamlined.
AFH: And commercial yet nerdy. Or does the high-street market not count?
ACP: They are good at business. They have H&M, which is great at sponsoring both the academic and commercial elements. They are really good at adopting and supporting local talent.
AFH: Hence Weekday and their great collaborations with local designers.
ACP: Right. But we’re less stuck on staying local. As you might notice, we like bringing international press.
AFH: What is your criteria when inviting us?
ACP: We just try to bring international press from influential media. The Swedish press come on their own. So, we focus on the English, French, US and Asian press. The Japanese market is really good. They like Danish brands.
AFH: They just like liking things. They support everything. What about dealing with the press? I’m here with my . . . ummm . . . “assistant” because you’re amazing enough to welcome him. Am I the worst you’ve seen?
ACP: Yes. But you’re not alone. Press have brought boyfriends. . even, umm . . . to the front row. A sixteen-year old blogger just asked for her mother to have full accommodation and flights.
AFH: Touché. What about the problems that the press experience?
ACP: Things are changing. People are starting to respect my people.
Some brands still don’t understand. They don’t see these publications are potential markets. Some brands seat press in the third row, although brands usually understand and respect the press who I invite.
That is important. They are grateful and excited for the press who I invite to be able to see their shows. The Danish brands are getting good with my press. Press is responding supportively too. I’ve seen a lot of random blogs post great Copenhagen Fashion Week photos. That is exciting. They come here and want to devote time to reporting about what we show.
AFH: That’s a really good point about seeing. Are you annoyed with us when we insist on front row or do you see the importance of seating besides status and affectation?
ACP: Definitely. You cannot write about what you cannot see.
AFH: What about the rest of the people in the front row at Copenhagen Fashion week? Who are they?
ACP: There are too many reality stars in the front and they boot some major press to the back.
AFH: Everywhere. They are a plague.
ACP: They devalue the brands. A tabloid journalist called a big brand to ask whether any famous people were invited to the show. When the PR only mentioned B-list reality stars, the journalist repeated her question, annunciating “famous.” The brand didn’t get it. These “stars” aren’t even interesting to the tabloids.
AFH: What about the bloggers. What do they care about and do you care about them?
ACP: Bloggers are here, queer, get used to it. But we still don’t officially invite or accredit them. It’s too hard to figure out which ones matter. I can’t see how many hits they get and we get endless requests from bloggers to join. It’s nice that they are interested.
But I can’t read a blog from the Czech Republic and know whether it’s any good. And how can I tell whether some blog really gets 5 million hits a month? I can’t. So, we stick with publications which are established enough to really be judged and evaluated.
AFH: What about the Danish aesthetic? What are the threads linking Danish design, art, literature and architecture?
ACP: We’re very democratic. We don’t have a lot of really avant-garde.But we make great, approachable and democratic design.
AFH: And colourful. That’s accessible.
ACP: We have a generation of really colourful designers now. But we also have an older crew who stick to taupe, black and white
AFH: What about shapes? Jumpsuits and capes always seem big here. So few people can wear those, but they definitely are friendly.
ACP: We like flowing with things, too.
AFH: And you seem to really like fashion in general. The whole city gets really involved in Fashion Week. It feels genuinely festive.
ACP: Fashion is Denmark’s fourth largest export. The city of Copenhagen is funding the week and supports the excitement. It would be great to have more. Other cities have closed events but we incorporate the public as much as possible. The aim is to integrate fashion into the city as much as possible. The video screens around the city are a great thing. I’ve seen little picnic and dancing parties in front of the screens. Everyone gets involved. And the designers love it. I’ve seen designers who can’t actually see their own shows emotionally watching the videos. We have 60,000 people visiting each fashion week but the real goal is merging and celebrating fashion in Copenhagen.
