Vladimir Karaleev might just be the most creatively integral designer on the catwalk this season. He has a clear conceptual through line and is able to transform that into arresting garments. Aside from the (valid, I think) remark from a front-rower on the sustainability of each garment ("I feel like if you wash it, it'll disintegrate"), the pieces were brilliantly constructed. Karaleev's signature geometric style shone at its best in looks that managed to be equally iconic and wearable.
A rat-grey coat tied with a Japanese belt was reminiscent of Yohji Yamamoto's conceptual work, while strong, bright coloured shirts, jackets and trousers provided an intermission in between the darker schemed central pieces. As it is known, Karaleev has knack for playing with form and shape: exaggerating, accentuating, carefully choosing what will be shown, for how long, and on which movement. Probably due to being criticized for being too conceptual, this season the designer opted to include some casual, accessible pieces into the collection. A pair of orange trousers—as if taking a cue from the men shows in Paris—was spot-on in terms of conceptual target whilst also making buyers in attendance immediately reach into their bags for a pen—noted.
by Alonso Dominguez
