The Lever Couture show is a fashion metaphore for a brilliant scientist’s unedited career. As all Nobel laureates know, every scientific breakthrough is preceded by countless failed experiments.
Designer Lessja Verlingieri’s daring is consistently commendable but diluted by her mistakes. Too many looks appeared as answers to design school challenges (i.e: “Take a Q-tip, match, cooked oatmeal, copies of the Financial Times and a live lynx—turn into a red-carpet wonder). Yet, there were pieces that could be real contributions to society (in the social sense). A black-light knit micro-mini-dress had a massive shawl than descended into a cape. And the beautifully cut black trousers that flared into peplum-shaped side pockets were breathtaking. The look was repeated with a similarly crafted skirt. Both versions were worn with sheer black tops. With the sophisticated materials, silver side-zippers and innovative idea, this might be the single best outfit of Fashion Week this season.
Yet the poor models were staggering down the Soho House show-space's aisle in extreme concoctions of red tulle, with hobble skirts and trains that made movement nearly impossible, evoked more sympathy than awe. A train of oily black tinsel material caught on the wood floor. One Barbie-blond in an unyielding profusion of white high-tech packing material inspired an onlooker to exclaim, “she looks like Pho soup.” Her friend responded, “not even a real soup.”
Reality is obviously not a prime constraint for Verlingieri, whose designs have been wore by Gaga among other daring dressers. Yet sometimes her skillful craftsmanship, strong fabrics (among the best in Berlin) and fearlessness serve her well. At other times, she would do better to lock her Frankenstein creations in the closet.
by Ana Finel Honigman
Collection now available thanks to our friends at The Couture Society. Click to browse and buy.
