Just as certain religious sects historically created dresscodes to blend into their local culture without realising they’d stick out when centuries of fashion flowed past them, Lena Hoschek’s line retains a cult following for its anachronistic mixes. Hoschek and her faithful followers are devotedly rockabilly.
Sometimes, her clothes tip into the realm of costume, especially since her models lack the visible ink that updates her and her flock. The best looks were Dock Martins paired with floral house dresses and berets tilted at a saucy angle. The micro length of an adorable flirty denim Annie Oakley dress had the right mix of both old-fashioned and contemporary sass.
Yet, too many of Hoschek’s garments would only work on a theater’s stage since her cuts are faithful to their referents but her fabrics failed when seen too close. Her materials are vintage but seventies—rather than forties—and too synthetic to care for her cuts or concept. Yet a lovely toffee-coloured, fitted princess coat can be happily held for future generations. With its heart-shaped lapel, it created a perfect hourglass silhouette, for a feminine look that’s versatile and timeless.
by Ana Finel Honigman
