Agustin Teboul is weird, morbid and terribly self-conscious. In two words: absolutely delectable. Encountering their collection is what I'd imagine meeting Winona Ryder's Beetlejuice's Lydia Deetz would be like: intense, ravelling and irresistibly intriguing.
Augustin Teboul opted for a presentation, rather than a show—a usually risky move for a young label trying to establish themselves. However, their cohesive conceptual integrity was welcome by all after a day of otherwise unfortunate encounters with fashion flaws at the tent that day. The cavernous space chosen for the show allowed people to get lost into the concrete depth, immersing themselves into the design duo's fantasy. And a dark, lovely fantasy it was.
Each look was carefully detailed—a signature move from the label—with intricate embroidery and beading. Torero trousers were perfectly flanked with masterfully exaggerated elements. The head pieces crowning the long, asymmetric and webbed black dresses provided a sense of eccentricity while remaining shy and introverted (paging Diane Pernet). Models paced back and forward against a wall in always-black, complicated, weaved concoctions while a performer screamed in French into a mic in the room. Visitors were both scared and helplessly aroused.
Although extremely conceptual, the collection maintained a perfect balance between gasps of "Oh, that's cool" and "I could wear that..." from the crowd—a rare find in the Berlin catwalks these days.
Perhaps Augustin Teboul could lend some insight to other designers into their successful beginnings as a label. For now, we'll continue to invoke the beautifully awkward, Tim Burton-esque fashion creature they have created.
Augusting Teboul, Augustin Teboul, Augustin Teboul.
by Alonso Dominguez
Collection now available thanks to our friends at The Couture Society. Click to browse and buy.
